| Wine Edginess |
Ever had an "edgy" wine ?
That's the term correspondent Kristin Donnelly used in describing "cloudy, oddly hued and more savoury than fruity" wines in Food and Wine's February 2011 issue. They could be producers favouring ancient techniques such as aging wines in beeswax-coated earthenware pots, or amphorae dropped into holes in the ground up to their necks to keep them cool. One wine producer, Frank Cornelissen, whose estate lies near Sicily's Mt. Etna, ages his reds in apoxy-glazed amphorae to avoid tertiary aromas and flavours of toastedness found in oak barrels. Others cited are vinifying "orange" wines; white wines vinified in red wine fashion. The juice sits on the skins for extended periods, thereby adopting golden/orange/pink hues and a degree of tannin. The author writes of the venerable R. Lopez de Heredia Estate in Spain's Rioja even aging its roses in oak up to 10 years. Donnelly admits these "edgy" wines aren't always immediately appealing but says she's taken with the way they evolve as one smells and tastes them.
Worth trying, n'est ce pas ?
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